Elie Saab once again transported VIP guests at Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs to a kingdom of magic and opulence, a world of bridal queens and midnight shadows, while French couturier Julie de Libran furthered her signature style with a light, airy exhibition.
Here are highlights from Wednesday’s Fall/Winter 2024 Couture collections.
Elie Saab shines for men and women
The Lebanese designer’s fall collection began with a dramatic midnight debut, putting the crowd in a pleasantly dark mood, settling on models clad in black leather opera gloves and black satin graphic bands.
The men’s couture capes, which have been part of Saab’s theme since Fall 2022, are embroidered with sequins and sparkling threads reminiscent of silvery leaves wet with morning dew. Saab’s luxurious men’s couture line continues to add a new dimension to the brand, catering to a market segment that craves attention.
The primarily women’s show featured artful arrangements of organza swirling from the waist up, and the colour palette softened as the collection progressed, with the signature floor-length silhouettes sparkling in jewel tones.
A standout piece was a shoulder-less powder-red gown whose sequins on the bodice transformed into a sea of feathers cascading down its mermaid-like skirt, the shifting textures highlighting Saab’s craftsmanship.
Saab’s designs may not always be groundbreaking in their innovation or surprise, but his commitment to his own style makes his creations timeless, and his star clientele appreciate a red-carpet-worthy classicism.
Ellie Goulding and others applauded from the front row, proving Saab’s enduring appeal.
The nostalgic charm of de Libran
French couturier Julie de Libran is known for her intimate shows, which often feature close friends as models and muses, evoking a nostalgic charm reminiscent of traditional couture presentations.
On Wednesday, de Libran furthered her signature style with a light, airy display.
Models held numbered cards that recalled how the collection was originally presented, and the vintage feel was further enhanced by details like the pink feathers on the loose-waisted gowns that evoked a 1930s vibe, although the gown’s vibrant red imbued it with a modern twist.
De Libran’s love for vintage-inspired fabrics is evident in a burgundy column dress and an oversized coat adorned with glittering velvet flowers. These pieces are emblematic of her commitment to quality craftsmanship and upcycling. Using exquisite fabrics from factories in Lyon, her pieces are often impossible to replicate and are a testament to her craftsmanship.
As one of the few independent designers in the couture world, de Libran continues to fascinate audiences with his combination of nostalgic elegance and contemporary sophistication.
The art of invitations
The art of the chic invitation is crucial in the Parisian luxury world, with fashion houses competing to create the most original and extravagant show invitations, which are often delivered to each guest’s personal or work address by gas-guzzling courier, with little regard for the environment.
Miniature masterpieces are sometimes indicative of future collections, and sometimes simply whimsical.
Chanel’s latest invitations featured opera glasses, alluding to the theme of the show, which takes place at the Paris Opera House. Dior stayed true to its traditional roots, sending beautifully written cards by a veteran calligrapher, evoking the timeless elegance of the house. Schiaparelli’s giant golden key invitations reflected founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist heritage and promised an avant-garde showcase.
