Kerala’s dynamic fashion scene has given birth to a multitude of trends over the years. From bell-bottom pants and wide-collar shirts of the 90s to skinny jeans and a throwback to retro styles, Kerala fashion trends have always placed equal emphasis on comfort and confidence. Fashion in the state has been moving towards casual, western attire for a while now.
“We certainly understand the desire to express ourselves through the way we dress, mainly due to Western influences,” says Naila Ali, a design student from Cochin. “This concept has spread across the world, and as Gen Z is globally connected, countries and states like ours are also being influenced by this.”
Interestingly, in Kerala, the embrace of modernity doesn’t mean traditional style is ignored. “Kerala fashion closely follows the trends of buyers, incorporating cultural symbols into religious wear and contemporary fusion designs to suit modern tastes,” points out Sneha Vinod, a fashion enthusiast and alumna of SH College, Thevara.
There’s a strong emphasis on accessories. Earrings, chokers, silver chains, layered necklaces and metallic rings are fashion staples for the people of Kerala. “Fashion trends come and go in Kerala,” says Urmila Jitesh, a final-year student at Christ University, who is an avid observer of fashion trends.
“Whenever I go back for holidays, I notice people picking up trends from colleges like Kochi, which is the fashion capital, and bringing them back home. Trends pick up really fast there, which means every part of Kerala is a trendsetter,” she says. Baggy trousers teamed with even baggier shirts and bold accessories are popular, as are boyfriend shirts with Converse and high-waisted jeans with crop tops for a cool, glamorous look. Floral prints are also here to stay, when paired with bold, eye-catching colours. Fashion ranges from showy to minimalist.
“The growing trend towards inclusivity is evident in the way companies and designers are creating new apparel. While some are opting for more traditional styles, others are embracing experimental styles,” says Swati Rajeev, a Kochi-based fashion designer. This mindset is reflected in the plethora of clothes that are trending.
Lately, Kerala has been turning to sustainability and affordability in fashion, rather than relying on expensive luxury brands. “Fashion seems like an expensive word these days,” Nira points out. “It seems to be only for people of a certain social strata promoting the common belief that ‘design is by the elite, for the elite,’ but why shouldn’t fashion be for everyone? Why shouldn’t it just be about self-expression?” Sustainable fashion, like recycling, seems to be the way forward.
“We believe that clothes are a way of self-expression and second-hand clothing is like giving clothes a second chance, like recycling!” say Anjana, Nayana and Alina, owners of thrift.in.kochi, a popular Instagram-based second-hand clothing store. “We are three university students juggling our classes with an online store, on a mission to make Kerala more sustainable. We believe that with the support of the community, we can make it happen.”
The culture of recycling is widespread in the state. Kajal and Gopika, sisters from Kannur, run Teal Blue Thrift Shop, which started on Instagram and eventually blossomed into a beloved retailer in Coach. “While we saw trendy clothes in big cities in India, we couldn’t find high-end fashion items at affordable prices in Kerala. Corset tops, bodycons, denim skirts with slits… these clothes were not widely found in stores here. So we wanted to bring the shopping experience of going outside to Kerala,” says Kajal.
Instead of adhering to a binary, gender-neutral fashion is becoming more popular. Commenting on this idea, Kajal points out, “Though we market ourselves as a business for women, fashion transcends these gender barriers. It is common for a man to go to a store with a woman and end up buying it, as he is fascinated by a summer shirt or a floral outfit.” By creating opportunities for men to wear traditionally feminine clothing and removing restrictions on women’s sartorial choices, fashion now reflects the progressive ideals that Malayalis want to foster.
“I look at fashion trends here like a baby learning to walk,” Naira concludes. “Earlier, we didn’t have a solid foundation to stand on. But now, with the growing popularity of apps like Instagram and Pinterest, and exposure to fashion and design as a culture, we are catching up with trends very quickly.”
(Models: Anoop KG, Reshma Manmadhan)
